CHILLAXING IN LA VENTANA

Cerralvo Island

Welcome to La Ventana

La Ventana is only a 45 minute drive from Costa Baja in La Paz. It is one of our most favorite spots to walk the beach and then enjoy a bit of lunch. The water is clear, clear, clear. The color is sapphire, indigo, and green. The wind blows through the Cerralvo Channel everyday at noon. Which is why wind surfers and kite surfers camp out for weeks at a time on the pristine white sand beaches. When the wind isn't blowing in the morning volley ball is the sport de jour. Young and old flock here to chillax. Actually, not a whole lot of relaxing goes on, the inhabitants of La Ventana are major well-toned and tanned sports enthusiasts of all ages.

Huge sweeping beach with layers of watercolors.

Spark likes the Ventana vibe too.

Lots of ways for dogs to dig Ventana.

Campers play V-ball waiting for the wind to come up.

Kites are ready to fly.

Voluntary Simplicity Shower

I took this picture 2 years ago, today the number of campers has tripled. Like most of Baja, everything is booming down here. More tourists, more campers, more sailors, and more traffic in the main cities. I think you all should go to Hawaii and leave this piece of heaven for me.

This camper has it figured out. 

So does this motorhome.

Cupulas and windsurfers. Must be after noon.

Lush Landscape surrounds a palapa roof.

 La Ventana has recently been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and this strip of “Where Desert Meets Sea” is a perfect example of why Jaques Cousteau referred to the Sea of Cortez as the “World’s Aquarium”. This expansive bay with its long stretch of sandy beach hugging sapphire waters calls to us every time we sail by. We are always careful to plan our passage up and down the narrow Cerralvo Channel at first light to avoid the high afternoon winds that funnel between Cerravlo Island and the Bay.  Once a sleepy fishing village, Gringo snowbirds from USA and Canada winter here in everything from tents to campers to eco cabins to luxe homes. I am sure the locals are happy to see summer come and the gringos go. This next place fits right into the fishing village theme. Right?  Just because you can, does not mean you have to!

Miami Vice does Baja.

One thing is certain this Gringa Sailor will be back.

Chillaxing

AND THE WINNER IS…………...

Hands Down, The BEST Margarita is at

 La Palmas Restaurante in La Ventana, Baja

And the BEST Camaron de Taco goes to…….

LOTS of BIG FAT FRESH SHRIMP!

How Convenient, La Palmas Restaurante in La Ventana.

Oh My! They also have the BEST VIEW!

Cerravlo Channel, Sea of Cortez

Restaurante Las Palmas

Hasta La Wasta Baby.

EVERYONE LOVES TODOS SANTOS

Todos Santos Central Plaza

Yes, Todos Santos is cool, in fact, its tres chic. Everyone says so. There are lots of art galleries, beautiful old architecture at every turn, gourmet restaurants galore, and magenta bougainvillea flourishes over doorways. The traditional lovely pale yellow cathedral stands tall in the center of town across from the well-manicured plaza, just as it should. New colorful fiesta flags strung above central plaza and across recently painted shops flutter in the gentle breeze. Todos Santos sparkles. 

A favorite Margarita restaurant.

Nuestra del Senora de Pilar

The new highway connecting La Paz to Todos Santos and to Cabo San Lucas is easy to drive and offers a direct conduit for bus loads of gringo tourists. Good for business, but for me, something special has been lost. It’s no longer a sleepy artist colony tucked away on the Pacific Ocean. I am still going back, because I know nothing stays the same for long. Lots of gringo residents & visitors. It was obvious that the gringo residents had lived there a long time, were fluent in Spanish, and loved Mexico. 

       The inside of the cathedral is even better.

Another place that seems to collect worshipers is Hotel California. Stunning color, artwork, a fantastic glass chandelier, and a serene interior garden draw tourists from all over Baja.

Hotel California

 Another frequently visited spot is Caffe Todos Santos

You can see why this is a popular morning stop.

Art is everywhere, and everywhere you want to snap a photo.

My guys patiently wait for me.

Typical color, red bricks, ironwork, and lush trees.

The town was bustling by ten in the morning. By noon it was not easy to find parking, and it was even more difficult to snap a picturesque photo without a gray-headed tourist hovering nearby. Worse, I was one of them. I also have to admit I found LOTS of things I wanted to buy, Mexican pottery, hand blown glass hearts, milagros, treasures that can usually only be found on the mainland. Best of all, was a fine oil painting of an old Caballero riding a horse. Oh, how we wanted that 4 X 5 painting. Such heart and soul it had, unfortunately, it also had a big price tag.

The shopping is really good, 
and things you can't otherwise find in Baja.

Milagros are my thing, so many choices in this little shop.

Another find, was a near to life size sculpture of “Poets to Rescue of the World” by Benito, a delightful artist who made our day. He has a shop that features smaller works as well. Most of his sculptures are focused Sea Creatures, mermaids, nymphs, and seashores. All Charming.

"Poets To Rescue The World"

Benito, the artist and gentle person, 
told us the world needs more poets.
We agree.

You may have noticed the power lines crisscrossing the above picture of the cathedral. Wiring and electrical power sources is one of our favorite things about Baja. They remind  us that of the more carefree and spontaneous spirit of the Mexican people. As Baja quickly prepares to become a major tourist destination, we see the power lines as charming remnants of her past which is, for us, rapidly disappearing. Nevertheless, we will always love Baja, Norte and Sur, and her warm friendly people. 

Baja Infrastructure

Old bricks are a window to Baja's past, and are often saved and embellished when historic buildings are renovated. It's not only charming, but reassuring that Baja reveres the old.

Hidden Charms of the Past

 By 1 o'clock we were hungry. We searched for a more “local and familiar” taco stand to have lunch, and am happy to report Tacos Ricky Rey’s hit the mark. It’s owned by an old family from La Paz and has fresh large shrimp and mango salsa that will get me to come back. In the meantime, it was time for us to find some solitude at the beach.

Quaint, Colorful, Fantastic Service, and Very tasty!

Tacos de Camarones with Mango Salsa, 

served with a Cold Corona, of course!

 Dog Friendly Too!

Next door to the taco bar is their Sports Bar - 

I loved the outside windows.

EVERYONE LOVES TODOS SANTOS, but....

We like Todos Santos too, but prefer the long stretches on pristine beaches just a few miles south at Pescadero. Sometimes we just really need a change of scenery - so we left the Sea and drove to the ocean.

What's not to love?

Yeah baby, this beach is the BEST!

Darrell and Spark

Hortaliza

Rancho Pescadero introduces a bit of civilization to the solitude of the coastline. Set in the midst of organic produce and flower farms, the Inn's Mexican architecture, stylish color, eye to detail, and fresh culinary delights are muy bueno. For me, Todos Santos is a good stop to shop, but this spot is my cup of tea for a peaceful day. I know everyone loves Hotel California, so I encourage you to stay there and leave this quietness for me and D. Only Spark has to stay elsewhere. BUMMER.

 The pool is a good alternative to the cool 
Pacific Ocean with its nasty undertow.

Oh, those paintings!

Oh, that blue chandelier

Oh those, ROSES, HOLLYHOCKS, & SUNFLOWERS!!!

Rancho Pescadero room rates seem reasonable to me, but there are lots of ways to hang out on the Pacific beach.  We found a really cozy spot called Dr. Robert's Ocean Oasis. It appears to be surfer oriented, and more like "glamping", which of course is right up my alley. We also saw numerous trailers parked on prime lots, and several homes have been built....and several are for sale. Probably for a variety of reasons, but reality does not always match the dream.

Don Pedrito's Surf Hotel gets my #1 vote.

Dr. Robert's

More casual, and probably more permanent, with the same view.

Our reality was that it was late afternoon and we had to get back on the road to be safely in La Paz before nightfall. The new highway connecting Todos Santos /Pescadero and Cabo to La Paz is excellent, but stories of herds of goats crossing the road motivated us to move along. Leaving the beach, we stopped at a newly opened organic restaurant called Restaurante Hortaliza, Hierbabueno. Since we had already eaten in Todos Santos, I only ordered a lemonade, but I am coming back for a big salad, grilled veggies, and maybe a pizza in their stone oven. I am sure D will go for the arrachera steak.

Artichokes, Herbs, Fruits, and Flowers

 Simple Elegance

 Simply Delicious

Simply beautiful.

Simple Perfection.

Back on the road again...and ready to be back on El Tiburon.

The new highway and the old.