CRUISING SOUTHBOUND

Heading South
While we love speeding about in our dinghy, Jaws, 
we will be traveling south aboard our Tayana 47' sailboat. 
Much more space.

Finally, after a year of El Tiburon sitting patiently in her slip at the very fine Marina Coral in Ensenada, we are headed south. We have less than a month to prepare for the voyage, which seems like a good bit of time, but we are having a bit of too much of a good time. It's just too easy to get distracted by Marina Coral's pools and jacuzzis, and dancing at the newly built cruisers lounge overlooking boats tugging at their lines anxious to go south. Meeting new friends, visiting our fav taco stands, and running Spark at the beach too often takes priority. And of course, we have to revisit the Ruta del Vino one more time.

Friends from Lunactica, Manuela, and Bula are counting on us being ready for a November 4th departure. Gotta focus, gotta focus, gotta focus, gotta go swim, gotta go eat shrimp tacos on the street, gotta focus. 

GOT TO FOCUS!

 Not easy for a couple of self-proclaimed ADHDer's. 

Multiple dock lines are necessary to hold El Tib snug 
during heavy surge.

Gotta Untie Those Lines. Gotta Go. Gotta Go. 
GOT TO GO!

Profligate arrived at D Dock early this morning 
after the San Diego-Ensenada Race.
In the foreground, our neighbors gleaming 128-foot sailboat.

Profligate is a BIG 63 foot cat and she is F A S T. In 3 weeks she will lead about 170 sailboats carrying at least 400 sun-seekers south to Cabo San Lucas. Richard Spindler, San Francisco Bay sailing mag rag (Latitude 38) guru, conceived of the Baja Ha-Ha 20 years ago and has helped make cruising a reality for thousands of dreamers. We joined his crazy caravan for the 2010 Ha-Ha. So did our friends on Lunatica and Manuela, who this year, like us, prefer to take a slower and more relaxed trip south this time around. This year marks our 3rd trip south in El Tiburon. 

The marina is starting to buzz. Race boats, cruisers, and sport fishermen seem to be flocking in daily for a bit of Mexicano Hospitality. No one does it better than the Marina Coral Crowd. Fito, Cynthia, Hilda, Adam the Gate Keeper, dock workers, boat workers, the restaurant waiters, and on and on and on. Competent, friendly, and just plain fun. Jose Juan at the fuel dock brings Sparky stuffed toys. Sure, Mexico's warm waters, abundant fish, cold beer, and swaying palms on long stretches of beaches draw us here, but it is the people that keep us here. Now the marina has come up with even more ways to entice us to stay. New landscaping, new luxe bathhouses, party tents, and a gorgeous new spot to gather, an outdoor lounge featuring local music and spicy fried chicken wings! With increasing numbers of boaters here there should be plenty of good cruiser camaraderie enhanced by icey-cold margaritas tonight at the Cruiser's Lounge. I suspect, lots of dancing and laughing will abound as well. I'll keep you posted.

We are in good company at Marina Coral, Profligate and Jagare, 

with the University standing proud high on the hill.

Did I mention Darrell is racing in the Around Todos Santos Race tomorrow with new friends on their San Francisco based Catalina 470, Agave Azul? Followed by a melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon dinner at Ensenada's finest steak restaurant, Sanos. Should be good fun with a fleet of SoCal boats coming down on the San Diego - Ensenada Race. Turns out the race was somewhat of a bust, no wind and then BOOM at 3am 35 knots of warm Santa Ana wind on the nose. Hope the weather gods are kinder to us next month.

Agave Azul flies the bright yellow Ha-Ha 2013 flag.

F O C U S.....mañana.

Back Aboard

We arrived at Marina Coral in time for the Amanda Miguel and Diego Verdaguer Concert. It was great fun with plenty of wine tasting, fantastic food, and outstanding music that we danced like crazy to most of the night. 

The event was bigger than ever and included hot air ballon rides. 

El Tiburon enjoys a good view of the activities.

The "Beatles" and the "Rolling Stones" warmed up the crowd
 for 3 hours before the concert started!  

Wine tasting was enjoyed by all - all 37 wines. We lost count after sipping a dozen varieties, and had a very difficult time voting for our two favorites. Next up was the cerviche tasting. Oh My. Served elegantly and all tasted Muy Delicioso!

 It was pretty Obvious that Darrell's nephew Rob was enjoying himself.

Of course, D always enjoys himself at Marina Coral's events.

Mushrooms stuffed with mangoes and shrimp. Y U M !

While every single booth served some of the BEST cerviche I have ever enjoyed, my most favorite booth wasn't about the food, but the caterers. "Romance Eventos". I don't remember exactly what they served, but I do remember them!

Muy Atractivo, and Muy Romantica, yes?

Darrell gets his "Yo (heart) Vino" t-shirt.

After drinking lots of wine and eating VERY good food, it was time to dance. And dance, we did. Gringos and Mexicanos alike sang and danced to their favorite Beatle and Stones songs. Some in Spanish, some sung in English. Young and old rocked out. The locals were dressed to the nines, while the "yachties" perfected cruiser casual.

Is that really Mick?

Too Cute. She danced to the Beatles while he took pictures of her.

This couple danced for days!

They never missed a beat.

YIKES!

Looking causal, En Fuego, Bula, and El Tiburon joined the fun.

No where near the dance floor, this duo was Darrell's favorite.

Viva Ensenada! Viva Mexico!

RICARDO DOES ENSENADA

Richard goes native - again. This time, it's with Tommy in Ensenada.

My brother Richard came to Ensenada and we did our best to show him our favorite spots. We started at Santa Tomas Bodegas for some Covelli’s wood-fired pizza and local red wine. The next day, after a nice swim and jacuzzi, we headed to Floresta for street tacos.  

Y U M !  

Fresh fish or shrimp served with a compliment of cabbage, cilantro, salsa fresco, pickled onions, radishes, peppers, and a variety of VERY spicy hot sauces. They just raised their prices to 12 pesos, costing us of total of $3.00 US for breakfast. 

Tommy gets a kiss from his sidekick, Mickey.

We drove out to the Estuary for a walk along along the Bay and enjoyed the spring flowers, shorebirds, quaint, and not so quaint to grande casas that line the beach. Inspired by the crisp clear day we decided to head out towards Bufadora - the famous blow hole at Punta Banda. After 3 days of steady rain the muddy-swampy-dirt roads short-circuited our trek.  Besides, we were side tracked by TOMMY the Zebra (aka donkey) and his perky side-kick perro. Both have been well trained to entertain tourists for 10 pesos. The dog jumps on and off the donkey’s back, gives him kisses, and together they strike many poses for the camera. Unfortunately, they move through their well-planned routine faster that I can work my camera. We have heard from old-time cruisers that the duo also rides the bus hoping for increased tips.

So many choices. 
We chose spicy olives for martinis and honey for tea.

Olives, Peppers, and Plenty of Spice 

This time I had my camera ready to snap pictures of the colorful olive and honey and tamale stands that line the roadside. Once again, I was charmed by the genuine friendliness of the local people that offer tasty local products to tourists. Mexicans - often referred to as Mexi- CAN Do’s - sell these flavorful homemade treats in a variety of familiar containers. Did I mention I LOVE Mexico and her people? I know, in just every post, I elaborate on the service minded, friendly, fun loving citizens of Mexico. It’s what keeps us here.

Tarta de Fruta

Well, that was a full day, but not over yet. Back downtown to our favorite lunch spot, El Mason del Don Fernando for Chili Rellenos.  Can’t forget dinner. So, up a few blocks thru town back to Santa Tomas Bodegas for some fresh Yellowtail Tuna and butterflied shrimp for dinner, finished off with a fruit tart from Hogaza Hogaza. Oh My, we are on a roll, and only half way through the weekend.
We watched some HBO Hitchcock movie, had a martini or two, passed out, and slept soundly.

Palm trees, vineyards, blue skies, and dos amigos.

The next morning - off we went to the Vinicola for some wine tasting. Ah, spring was in the air. Green, Green, Green.  Three-hundred and sixty degrees of palm trees, lush green mountains, freshly pruned vines, bright yellow lemon grass, and brilliant blue skies.

Monte Xanic

Vinas de Garza 

Our very favorite, and considered by many, the BEST winery in the Valle del Guadalupe, is Vinas de Garza. The venue is captivating and Senor Amado Garza, is a handsome, charming, and yet unassuming vintner. He is a refreshing change from the pretentious Napa Sonoma snobbery. He is also a very good friend of our dentist - Dr. Ortiz - who is a great dentist and a vintner too! We made a couple of more rounds, had lunch, and headed home a for a little R & R, Bar-B-Qued Shrimp, and watched “The World’s Fastest Indian” with Sir Anthony Hopkins.

We enjoyed lunch at Rancho Maria Teresea

Alas, Monday morning arrived, and it was time for my brother to catch the shuttle back to San Diego and time for Darrell and I to start packing up for our trip north for a bit more remodeling of the old homestead. We’ll be back to Ensenada, El Tiburon, and Marina Coral late April for the Amanda Miguel and Diego Verdaguer concert. More eating, drinking, musica, and fun to follow.

www.vinosdegarza.com

You can also see September 2012 post about Vinas de Garza, the Valle de Guadalupe, and the Ruta del Vino. Tres Mujeres is another fine winery we encourage you to enjoy.

Fine Vino Tintos served at Tres Mujeres

We're Back!

Adobado (spicy pork) tacos, one of our favorite things about being back in Mexico. And it's OH SO GOOD to be back aboard El Tiburon at Marina Coral.

A very much appreciated gift of Yellow Tail Tuna from our fisherman neighbors aboard Quiteno. Darrell seared it perfectly. They also delivered some fresh Dorado - my favorite - but it did not last long enough to be photographed. Yep, Oh So Good to be back on El Tib in Mexico.
AND, YOU GOTTA HAVE VINO TO GO WITH GREAT FOOD!

The Valle de Guadalupe with its Ruta del Vino is only 10 miles from Marina Coral and offers not only beautiful mountain and valley views, but has a variety of wineries, both large scale and boutique, for weekend wine tasting. 
There are also plenty of cafes for Sunday brunch as well, always busy with multigenerational families sharing a long relaxed meal.

Vinos de Garza

LOVE, LOVE, LOVE Tres Mujeres 

There are LOTS more wineries to enjoy.
Laja's is next on our lunch list.

Ensenada - Renewal, Refreshment, and Refurbishing

Ensenada has been a pleasant surprise. Marina Coral definitely lives up to it’s reputation for service and comfort. Hilda in the Marina office is fantastic, and Jesus is too. The hotel/spa/marina is complete with indoor and outdoor pools, steam baths and saunas, and a first class restaurant. Of course, in the Mexico Resort tradition, lush gardens with green lawns, colorful flowers, and swaying palms grace the property. 

Getting set up for the AWESOME Aleks Syntek Concert

Darrell, always a Happy Man in Mexico, is ordering up our sushi dinner.

My first night back on El Tiburon, El Coral Hotel sponsored a concert with Aleks Syntek. WOW. He was fantastic, played just about every instrument imaginable, and is a first rate performer. The audience ate it up, and so did we. We also ate up some pretty delicious sushi with a good red wine from a nearby vineyard a few miles outside of Ensenada. Our sushi, was stupendous! A half of mushroom cap filled with spicy marlin and then fried in a tempura batter! OH MY, it’s so good to be back in Mexico.

Doesn't that look just FABULOSO!?!

Spark’s pretty content to be back aboard too, it took him less than 2 minutes to find his Boo Boo and jump up on our bed for a nap.

Nuestra Senora del Carmen and Spark at Baja Naval

Most of our 5 day visit in Ensenada will be spent at Baja Naval Marina and Boatyard. Overlooking the travel lift at the marina is Nuestra Senora del Carmen, the Virgin Patron of de Los Marineros, who blesses and protects mariners with calm seas so they may return safely home. And that’s Sparky standing guard over the whole affair. So far our experience as Baja Naval has been the professional and thoughtful service we have heard about from other sailors. For El Tib it is like old home week- she received good care here in her prior life with her previous owners. After 2 years on the “road” El Tib’s sorry ass bottom news some fresh paint. A few other projects will also be completed and we are thinking of a bit of redecorating. New Countertops and leather upholstery will make her pretty swish.

El Tiburon looking pretty good even before her spa treatment.

While El Tib enjoys 3 days of spa treatment at Baja Naval, Darrell, Spark and I are hanging out a couple of blocks down the street at Corona Hotel and Spa. It’s convenient and has the necessary equipment for us to be satisfied, a pool, a jacuzzi, and a good restaurant. After indulging in the two former pleasures we ended up at their Veleros Restaurant and treated ourselves to a Caesar salad, prepared artfully at our table, topped with some grilled chicken. We tried to eat a bit more healthy after downing huevos rancheros, frijoles, and fried hash browns at breakfast with fresh squeezed Hugo de Naranjo. Also gotta give kuddos to Mario, our yard manager, at Baja Naval for driving us around town to look for granite for new countertops for El Tiburon. Our tour included a stop at a busy intersection for street tacos - fresh fish - another, Oh So Good, that makes leaving Mexico for the summer, Oh So Hard!

Fresh Baja Fish Street Tacos

But, leave we will, because we have a Summer Solution. We are pretty smug these days thinking that after 2 years of racking our brains out for a good life plan for the next couple of years, we came up with a great solution. El Tiburon for our sea adventures and Tranquila for land cruising. Better pinch ourselves, say a few Hail Mary’s, and always remember to be grateful for our blessings. 

Got Granite?

Cutting a hunk off for a sample

When we return to Mexico in September this granite slab will morph into counters for the galley and the 2 heads. It's a bit of weight, but since removing a 60 gallon water tank and the honking heavy old Glacier Bay refrigerator compressor (we opted for a Frigaboat system and a Spectra watermaker) we should have no problem gliding along in seas at our normal speed. Something to look forward to when we get back on board.