Tuesday, November 1, 2011

El Tib anchored (again) Ensenada de los Muertos

2010 "Bahia Suenos"
El Tibuon is back in Ensenada de los Muertos after a relatively easy week-long sail down Baja. However, a bit has changed in this lovely slice of paradise. It seems trouble does lurk in paradise, at least for greedy Gringo developers. The San Diego developer's boutique resort, which we loved, but hated his ill-conceived notion of changing Ensenada de los Muertos (Cove of the Dead) to a seemingly more "sale-able" Bahia Los Suenos (The Bay of Dreams) is now abandoned. The developer's self-serving decision to change the eighteenth century name of the famous cove in the Sea of Cortez has turned sour. There are no fancy cocktails being served alongside the Infinity Pool, no local music gigs at the Giggling Marlin Restaurant, no Goldie Hawn, no one is playing golf on the Tom Doak course, there are no horses prancing guests up and down the beach, no commotion from off road ATV's, and no more pricey hamburgers in the "train room". No mas. Nada. And the US million dollar lots are on hold as well. Guests were escorted off the property October 31 (how fitting) and the road closed over a reported "land dispute". 
The mass development of condos along the shoreline at Muertos is also on hold, for now. Hopefully, the natural desert landscape will enjoy a reprieve from noisy tractors and earth moving mammoths. A further distasteful part of the developer's "vision", or lack of, was to move the existing panga fleet to a man-made estuary in order to make way for an expanded golf course and a fleet of sport-fishing  boats, as well as to rid the beach of the "unsanitary" fish remains. Our best regards to the hard working local pangueros who fish these waters. 
April 2010: Spark and D take a walk on the beach
The long stretch of pristine beach is still lovely, the sapphire water, clear and warm. Long live Ensenada de los Muertos.

See earlier posts: Ensenada de los Muertos, Red Skies, and To the Sea, To The Beautiful Sea.

1 comment:

  1. Wow! Big changes there. Can't say I'm sad about them, though.

    We're in Puerto Escondido heading north - hope to see you guys when we get back to La Paz in a few weeks.