s/v El Tiburon : EVERYONE LOVES TODOS SANTOS

Todos Santos Central Plaza

Yes, Todos Santos is cool, in fact, its tres chic. Everyone says so. There are lots of art galleries, beautiful old architecture at every turn, gourmet restaurants galore, and magenta bougainvillea flourishes over doorways. The traditional lovely pale yellow cathedral stands tall in the center of town across from the well-manicured plaza, just as it should. New colorful fiesta flags strung above central plaza and across recently painted shops flutter in the gentle breeze. Todos Santos sparkles.

A favorite Margarita restaurant.

Nuestra del Senora de Pilar

The new highway connecting La Paz to Todos Santos and to Cabo San Lucas is easy to drive and offers a direct conduit for bus loads of gringo tourists. Good for business, but for me, something special has been lost. It’s no longer a sleepy artist colony tucked away on the Pacific Ocean. I am still going back, because I know nothing stays the same for long. Lots of gringo residents & visitors. It was obvious that the gringo residents had lived there a long time, were fluent in Spanish, and loved Mexico.

The inside of the cathedral is even better.

Another place that seems to collect worshipers is Hotel California. Stunning color, artwork, a fantastic glass chandelier, and a serene interior garden draw tourists from all over Baja.

Hotel California

Another frequently visited spot is Caffe Todos Santos

You can see why this is a popular morning stop.

Art is everywhere, and everywhere you want to snap a photo.

My guys patiently wait for me.

Typical color, red bricks, ironwork, and lush trees.

The town was bustling by ten in the morning. By noon it was not easy to find parking, and it was even more difficult to snap a picturesque photo without a gray-headed tourist hovering nearby. Worse, I was one of them. I also have to admit I found LOTS of things I wanted to buy, Mexican pottery, hand blown glass hearts, milagros, treasures that can usually only be found on the mainland. Best of all, was a fine oil painting of an old Caballero riding a horse. Oh, how we wanted that 4 X 5 painting. Such heart and soul it had, unfortunately, it also had a big price tag.

The shopping is really good,
and things you can't otherwise find in Baja.

Milagros are my thing, so many choices in this little shop.

Another find, was a near to life size sculpture of “Poets to Rescue of the World” by Benito, a delightful artist who made our day. He has a shop that features smaller works as well. Most of his sculptures are focused Sea Creatures, mermaids, nymphs, and seashores. All Charming.

"Poets To Rescue The World"

Benito, the artist and gentle person,
told us the world needs more poets.
We agree.

You may have noticed the power lines crisscrossing the above picture of the cathedral. Wiring and electrical power sources is one of our favorite things about Baja. They remind us that of the more carefree and spontaneous spirit of the Mexican people. As Baja quickly prepares to become a major tourist destination, we see the power lines as charming remnants of her past which is, for us, rapidly disappearing. Nevertheless, we will always love Baja, Norte and Sur, and her warm friendly people.

Baja Infrastructure

Old bricks are a window to Baja's past, and are often saved and embellished when historic buildings are renovated. It's not only charming, but reassuring that Baja reveres the old.

Hidden Charms of the Past

By 1 o'clock we were hungry. We searched for a more “local and familiar” taco stand to have lunch, and am happy to report Tacos Ricky Rey’s hit the mark. It’s owned by an old family from La Paz and has fresh large shrimp and mango salsa that will get me to come back. In the meantime, it was time for us to find some solitude at the beach.