More Road Tripping, this time to Puerto Vallarta

AH, Puerto Vallarta......


The view from the Malecon looking north towards La Cruz

Lying at the head of Banderas Bay, like a crown jewel, Puerto Vallarta is a sophisicated city rich with history, fine art galleries, modern bronze sculptures stretching the distance of the Malecon, and an array of restaurants that can keep even the most discerning Berkeley Gourmet Ghetto Foodie fat and happy.



Norm and Beth; "Future Puddle Jumpers"

 On this road expedition we took our Canadian friends from Sarah Jean II along to help navigate our way through the busy cobblestone streets of Old Town in PV and later, down the south coast in search of their favorite restaurant, Le Kliff.





Norm leads the parade down the Malecon 

 One of our favorite events in Mexico is Sunday afternoon strolls along the beach. Family time is sacred everyday in Mexico, but Sundays are fun-filled days spent enjoying the near perfect weather outdoors. Even teenagers spend the day with their families. I must also note that nowhere have I ever seen such happy children; no arguing, no whining, no complaining, just simply shrieks of laughter and joy from both parents and the children, and not just on Sundays.


Happy Kiddos




 



This mermaid was accompanied by a merman, but I liked her as is



Mexican Dancers

Beth and I could not resist sitting down in the laps of these creatures from outerspace, and well, Spark can never resist a photo opt.

Sitting Pretty

While modern bronze sculptures are an important part of any Malecon in Mexican beach communities, in Puerto Vallarta artists without the funding for bronze as a media for their creativity use sand to sculpt their works of art. These sand sculptures are constantly misted with water to stay fresh and a collection box is available for tourists to express their appreciation of the artists talents.

A Touch of Egypt

A Living Breathing Sandman

The two sand scupltures above are examples of artist's work that earned my donations. I cannot imagine how hot and itchy it must be to have your body caked with sand all day - talk about a dedicated artist!

I have been making a habit of going to the Central Plazas in each town we visit. I like to sit under the huge shade trees to enjoy the flower gardens and snap a few pictures. When I was young my mother taught me the "art of people watching" and Mexican Plazas are wonderful settings for observing human nature. The other thing that I love to do is visit the church that always faces the plaza. In big cities the church is a magnificant cathedral standing tall on the town square, and in small fishing villages the churches are more intimate and humble, but no less beautiful places of worship. The welcoming atmosphere of the Catholic churches in Mexico are the perfect place to give thanks, light a candle for a loved one, and rest inside the cool stucco walls away from the fray of the city.


Our Lady of Guadalupe

Construction of Our Lady of Guadalupe Cathedral was started in 1929 and it took 12 years to complete. Note the large crown that stands high on the steeple.

After my mission to the Plaza and Cathedral was finished it was time for our group to head south in pursuit of Beth and Norm's choice for dinner on the coast.  Several years before they had enjoyed dinner at Le Kliff restaurant and we wanted to arrive for cocktails and dinner in time for the sunset. We were not to be disappointed. The long and winding coast road followed the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains tumbling into the aquamarine Pacific. Large palms decorated with big leafy vines and tropical flowers clung to the hillsides on both sides of the road. In the small village of Mismaloya we passed a sad and tired sign that read "Night of the Iguana".  In honor of my image of the mystic mood of the movie I deleted it's picture.


Tropical jungle on the south coast

Le Kliff restaurant in Boca de Tomatlan lived up to all our expectations. The bamboo and thatched roof palapa precariously perched on the cliff offered the most romantic view and spectacular sunset we have seen in Mexico! And the food, no less spectacular; coconut shrimp, crab potstickers with mango sauce, and organic field greens with fresh pears, apples, pecans, and goat cheese.  Add mariachis playing in the background, and we had a perfect ending to a perfect day. We'll be back.

 The sunset begining to fade as we look south towards Yelapa. In a couple days we will begin our sailing trip south around this magnificant cape known as, Cabo Corrientes.

Road Trip: Punta Mita and Sayulita



Your Tour Guides

 After being in the La Cruz Marina for a week, we decided it was time for a road trip. With Darrell at the helm, we drove to the high end resort area of Punta Mita. Plenty of good shopping there! I got a bright cherry red Mexican embroidered dress I had been searching for and we did a tiny bit of sight seeing before heading north to Hippy-Chic Sayulita.

Punta Mita



Beach dining in Punta Mita

We had rented a big hillside house in Sayulita for Christmas vacation a couple of years before, and despite getting outrageously sick there, we were anxious to return to see if any changes had been made to the surfers paradise. Sayulita once a small Mexican fishing village, is now a fairly international winter haven for Gringos. Beautiful artistic homes with lush tropical gardens dot the hillsides and line the beachfront.



Since our last visit some good changes to our way of thinking have occurred. It is one of the few places in Mexico that appears to have prospered despite the American propaganda claiming it is unsafe to travel in this lovely country. BTW, which everyone here agrees is a bunch a bunk. Anyway, the streets are better maintained, recyling is everywhere, the mangy dog population has been curbed, and now poop bags are available on the beach for the mutts. Hurrah! Shops are cuter than ever and the street dining tastier with a vegetetarian flare. The town all the way around looks cheerier, brighter, and happier, but unfortunately, the result is a crowded beach.



Everything from yoga to burgers is available in Sayulita

 Perhaps one of the reasons that Sayulita looks cleaner is all the new rules that are being enforced. Good, but also kinda weird since it's still a basically hippy kind of town - young hippies and rich old hippies alike seem to be have found their nirvana here. 



Crowded, but everyone seems happy anyway.

For our crew, it wasn't the beach that was the hit, although the pretty girl in the left side of the picture did not go unnoticed by our Captain. Speaking of the Head Honcho, Darrell gives a big thumbs-up to the Cheeseburger in Paradise at Monchi's he enjoyed, and Spark found a Canadian VIZSLA girlfriend. Something for everyone. For the second time in Sayulita, I was able to pass up the South Sea Pearl necklace.....Darrell won't be so lucky next time through the town.

Double Your Fun - 2 Vizslas!

Cheeseburger in Paradise!



Let The Games Begin.........Mexican Train Dominos

While we were still living in San Francisco Bay our good friends Trisha and Derrick introduced us to Mexican Train Dominos. They assured us that ALL the cruisers play in Mexico and we if we wanted to be invited over to a boat we had better learn to play. So I went to Amazon dot com and found no less than 50 kinds - two days later I decided on a set with a handy plastic carrying case, brightly colored dominos, a nice track, and a train that whistles when a player is unable to make a move. My set also came with 2 chickens, but we have yet to figure out what to do with them. The game can be long, so drinks and dinner are always included. Here are pictures of our ritual aboard Mystic in La Cruz.


I like to think of us as the 3 graces; me, Beth & Betsy



Betsy served up a devine dinner, as always. Salad, Satay, & Fruited Couscous

Betsy is a most exceptional hostess. Always plenty of wine, great food, and lively conversation. She is also a very gracious hostess and welcomes Sparky, even says he can come inside. Unfortunately, for Spark, I am not so inclined and usually make him stay outside. Of course, being the social beast he is, he sulks. I bring his bed and blankie, and lamby too, but he is not happy with that arrangement. Later in the evening after I had a bit more wine, he finds his way inside.

The uninvited guest sulks outside, at least he has his lamby.

And now the real reason we are gathered together;

                                Let the Games Begin!



It appears the train is winning. No matter, we only play fun. Right. Then explain why David is so darn serious, contemplating his next move as if his life depends upon it.

David is getting serious now!

Norm must have a winning hand, why else the big grin?

Why is it the men are always so competitive?
I can hear them laughing, the 3 graces do a pretty good job at cutthroat dominos too!

Bahia de Banderas - Be Still My Heart

Punta Mita is a dramatic windswept landfall marking the entrance to Banderas Bay. A stunning visual arrival for sure, but also a bit intimidating with dangerous rocks and reefs lurking underwater waiting for one false move. There's a reason this point is a popular surf break. Careful navigation is essential to avoid unseen hazards which could result in disasterous outcomes. Using precise GPS waypoints we maneuvered our way through the narrow channel between the Islas Tres Marietas to starboard, and to port, the swank Four Seasons Resort with its well-manicured gardens dotted with tasteful villas perched above creamy yellow sand disappearing into deep blue.

Punta Mita

As El Tiburon edged her way forward into the Bay I was overcome with a familiar feeling of coming home. Maybe it was because we were greeted by scores of white sails, glistening mylar, and brightly colored spinnakers aided by a fresh breeze gliding sleek hulls over rippled water. Maybe it was the luxury yachts criss-crossing on the water reminiscent of our own San Francisco Bay. Or just maybe, I had found what I was searching for nearly 2,000 miles from home. Whatever the cause for the stir in my heart, it took my breath away.

Just one of the many beaches at Punta Mita

The beach adjacent to Marina La Cruz

Banderas Bay, or Bay of Flags, stretches nearly 23 miles from the most northern point of Punta Mita and La Cruz south to Cabo Corrientes (Cape of Currents) with Puerto Vallarta sitting as the Crown Jewel smack in the middle. To the south of the Bay lie the steep Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains reaching straight down to the ocean with the quaint tropical beach communites of Los Arcos at Mimismaloya, Las Animas, and Yelpa.



Tropical Lushness

 All kinds of steamy images came to my mind of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton in the 60's during the filming of  John Huston's "Night of the Iguana" starring Richard, Ava Gardner, and Deborah Kerr. Little wonder that kind of chemistry put Puerto Vallarta on the tourist map. 
Talk about steamy, one of the many interesting things about Banderas Bay is that the climate in the north of the Bay is more arid in comparison to the southern more tropical portion. Humid torrential downpours during the summer months produce not only lush vegatation, but provide a tropical habitat conducive to cocodrilos!  In fact, Paradise Village Marina on the estuary in PV is known to have cocodrilos swimming about the boats.
Bearing this in mind, we decided to settle into the smaller and more quiet village of La Cruz. As we made our way into Marina La Cruz we were hailed by our friends on Mystic and were told there was plenty of roomy 60 foot slips to chose from for our dockage. So far so good.



The entrance into the marina at La Cruz flanked by pangas and homes



Marina La Cruz Yacht Club



After reading about La Cruz Marina, also known as Marina Riveria Nayarit, for years on friends blogs and in SF Bay's Latitude 38 magazine my HIGH expectations were not disappointed. The crisp white stucco and palapa roofed yacht club, the swaying plams, the firey colored climbing bouganvillea, and the mass of familiar sailboats and faces with the anticipation of making new friends affirmed our nomadic lifestyle.



Scalawags with familiar faces gather at the Yacht Club for Happy Hour.

Before El Tib was safely secured in her slip Spark jumped ship to feel terra firma beneath his paws once again and rushed over to greet Betsy and David from Mystic. Sparky gave them his best wiggle-butt greeting, afterall, he hadn't seen them since Mazatlan.  Green grass and swimming for him, and lots of activities for us. Dominos, drinks, good food-including a lobster dinner- and loads of laughter were in order. The marina offers yoga classes taught by other cruisers, an outside amphitheater for Thursday night movies over-looking the Bay, a fresh fish market filled with the pangeros daily catch, laundry service, and plenty of Mexican boat workers to keep El Tiburon spiffy. We had our entire rigging buffed and polished! Whoaaaaaaaa.

Getting ready for the Pirates of the Caribbean movie

The Thursday night movie feature at the marina's outside amphitheater was Johnny Dep in the "Pirates of the Caribbean". Several of the cruiser kids made their own costumes to join in the fun. I cannot emphasize enough how delightful this talented, creative, educated, and social group of children are, interacting with them is really one of my favorite things about cruising. 



No shy pirates here

While the marina is filled with lots ambiance and comradery, it is the charming village of La Cruz that wins most cruisers hearts. La Cruz is a mixture of old and new, Gringo and Mexican, elegant dining and simple street vendors selling tacos. A German Chalet serves wienerschnitel, a British Pub, Coffee Houses, Hippy Joints with burgers and fries, Mexican Cantinas with lush courtyards serving freshly caught Dorado. Perhaps the best known hotspot for music and pizza is Philo's. The village is well known for live music in Banderas Bay; loud 60's rock & roll to blues and jazz to traditional Mexican ballads. The overall affect is a warm fuzzy feeling that keeps cruisers returning year after year. They even have a local vet for Spark who special orders his kibble. Darrell and I shared the instant recognition that this small village and the two of us are going to enjoy a long term relationship.



The hip-hop happening central Plaza

On Sunday mornings the plaza has a open air market with local enterprenuers selling organic produce including dill and mint, home baked French baguettes, hummus, jams, tomales, key lime and blueberry pies, spinach & mushroom quiches, banana breads, and big pots of steaming hot carnitas. Simply to die for gourmet treats. But, that's not all, there are scented candles and soaps, and all kinds of pottery, watercolor paintings, and of course, silver jewelry.

There's more. This country LOVES to celebrate anything. Nearly every week there is some holiday to commenerate a blessed saint or some political revolution or another, always with lots of loud music and fireworks late into the night - or really into the early morning hours. Our favorite one so far was the Blessing of the Fleet. Pangas and small fishing boats decorated with colorful streamers and ballons and then loaded up with families gathered at out marina and made they way to the town of Bucerias for the Blessing.


Getting ready for The Blessing of the Fleet

Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, I found a darling casa that sent me over the moon. In almost every way perfect in size and color. Even Spark agreed. Too bad it wasn't for sale, and besides it was way to close to the beach if a hurricane decided to visit.


Me casa - nope, but we are getting closer

Sparky likes it!

OK, enough of all this wonderfulness! Take a break and get ready for the next Banderas Bay chapter, we took a road trip north to Sayulita, then south to Puerto Vallarta and the tropical paradise around its corner. For me, it just keeps getting better. Darrell agrees. So does the Sparkster.